Issue #6
February 2002
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Morton's of Chicago by Sten Grynir The business diner expects consistency, quality, good service and comfort, probably in that order. Morton's of Chicago, a chain of steak houses emanating from that Mecca of good steaks, has based its existence on fulfilling these requirements. It succeeds admirably.
The essence of a Morton's is that it is indistinguishable from any other Morton's, regardless of the city you are in. The business traveler need not fear encountering anything new or strange (for new and strange, a business steak house is the wrong venue, no matter who the management is). The menu is for serious carnivores only, with steaks, chops and huge lobsters predominating. Salmon is available for those who think cholesterol matters and have wandered in by mistake.
On a recent visit, accompanied by my attorney, who may be last real carnivore left in Manhattan besides myself, I had the opportunity to indulge myself, and to compare the Morton's fare to that of a competitor, Ruth's Chris. We started with martinis (the only true steakhouse apperitif). My Bombay, extra-dry, up with a twist was perfectly prepared and of adequate size. My companion's Gibson was equally satisfactory. For starters, we ordered a shrimp cocktail and oysters. My shrimps (five) were jumbo, succulent and crunchy, with a cocktail sauce that was tangy and sweet. The oysters (I am not an oyster eater, though I love clams) were reported to be excellent. The bread on the table was an enormous dome of a challah-like flavor and consistency, with seeds on top.
For the main course, it was hard to decide among the many different cuts of steak, the lamb or veal chops, and the 4 ½ pound lobster. My companion suggested sharing a steak and the lobster; it turned out to be a good move. Vegetables and starches are ala carte at Morton's; nothing comes with the meat. My companion was disappointed to learn that Morton's does not do a deep-fried onion or fried onion rings. We made do with an order of asparagus and an plate of sliced beefsteak tomatoes and mozzarella.
The New York strip steak was a perfectly prepared rare. The meat was juicy, tender, and aromatic, with the robust flavor that only fine aged beef can offer. The lobster, taken out of the shell at our request by the kitchen and divided into two portions, was sweet and tender, a perfect vehicle for the plain melted sweet butter that accompanied it. The asparagus were enormous, crunchy, yet displaying the vegetable sweetness that undercooking cannot produce. The tomatoes were very red, a color hard to reproduce if the ripening process consists of asphyxiating the tomatoes in ethylene gas. All in all, pure satisfaction.
We skipped dessert in the interest of not actually exploding in the restaurant.
A month or so ago I dined with relatives at a Ruth's Chris in New Jersey. While the atmosphere was pleasant (more so than the Morton's on 45th Street, which tends to be noisy and, like all Mortons', has no view) the steak was nowhere near as good. Although well-prepared (not quite as rare as I like it, but acceptable), it was not as tender as the Morton's steak, nor as flavorful. The dining experience there was comfortable but disappointing.
Morton's of Chicago, 551 5th Avenue (entrance on 45th Street). 212 972-3315
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